Highlights, those shimmering strands of lighter hair woven through your natural color, can instantly brighten your complexion and add dimension to your look. But achieving the perfect highlight isn’t just about the lifting process. Toning is the crucial final step that transforms brassy, yellow, or orange highlights into the cool, creamy, or golden shades you desire. This comprehensive guide will explore what happens when you tone highlights, why it’s essential, and how to ensure you achieve your dream hair color.
Understanding the Science of Hair Color and Highlighting
Before diving into the toning process, it’s important to understand what happens to your hair when it’s highlighted. Highlighting involves using bleach (or a high-lift color) to lighten the hair strands.
When bleach is applied, it penetrates the hair shaft and dissolves the natural melanin (pigment) within. This process, known as oxidation, reveals the underlying tones of the hair, which are typically warm pigments like red, orange, and yellow. The extent to which these underlying tones are visible depends on how light the hair is lifted.
Think of it like peeling back layers of an onion. The deeper you go, the more the underlying colors are revealed. This is why freshly bleached hair often appears brassy or yellow – these are the underlying pigments being exposed.
Highlighting can also damage the hair, making it more porous and susceptible to color fading. This is another reason why toning is essential – it helps to seal the hair cuticle, reducing porosity and promoting longer-lasting color.
The Purpose of Toning Highlights: Correcting Color and Adding Dimension
Toning is a vital step after highlighting, and it serves several crucial purposes. It’s not simply about adding color; it’s about refining and perfecting the overall result.
Toning neutralizes unwanted brassy or yellow tones. This is the primary reason for toning highlights. Toners contain pigments that counteract the underlying warm tones exposed during the highlighting process. For example, purple toners neutralize yellow tones, while blue toners counteract orange tones.
Toning adds the desired tone and shade to the highlights. Whether you’re aiming for cool ash blonde, warm honey blonde, or a vibrant platinum, a toner will help you achieve your specific goal. The toner deposits pigment into the hair shaft, creating the desired color.
Toning enhances the overall blend and dimension of the highlights. A well-chosen toner can seamlessly blend the highlights with your natural hair color, creating a more natural and dimensional look. It helps to soften any harsh lines and create a more cohesive color result.
Toning can add shine and vibrancy to the hair. Many toners contain ingredients that help to smooth the hair cuticle, resulting in increased shine and a healthier appearance.
The Different Types of Toners and How They Work
Toners come in various forms, each with its unique application and impact on the hair. The choice of toner depends on the desired result and the current state of the hair.
Demi-Permanent Toners: These are the most common type of toner used for highlights. They contain low levels of peroxide, which allows the toner to deposit color without significantly lifting the hair. Demi-permanent toners are ideal for neutralizing brassiness, adding subtle tones, and enhancing shine. They typically last for 6-8 weeks.
Semi-Permanent Toners: These toners do not contain any peroxide and only deposit color onto the hair shaft. They are a gentler option for adding subtle tones or refreshing existing color. Semi-permanent toners last for a shorter period, typically 4-6 weeks.
Permanent Toners: While less common for toning highlights, permanent toners contain a higher level of peroxide and can both lift and deposit color. They are typically used for more dramatic color changes or to cover resistant grey hairs. Because they lift the hair, they can be more damaging and require more skill to use correctly.
Purple Shampoo and Conditioners: These are not technically toners, but they contain purple pigments that help to neutralize yellow tones in blonde hair. They are used as a maintenance product to extend the life of your toner and keep your blonde bright. They do not deposit color in the same way as toners and are less effective at making drastic color changes.
The active ingredients in toners are pigments and developers. The pigments provide the color, while the developer (typically hydrogen peroxide) opens the hair cuticle, allowing the pigment to penetrate. The strength of the developer determines how much the toner will lift the hair and how long the color will last.
The Toning Process: Step-by-Step Guide
The toning process can be done at home or in a salon. While professional toning is generally recommended, especially for complex color corrections, it is possible to achieve great results at home with the right knowledge and products.
Consultation and Color Selection: The first step is to determine your desired tone and shade. Consider your skin tone, eye color, and natural hair color when making your decision. Look at inspiration photos and consult with a stylist if needed.
Strand Test: Before applying the toner to your entire head, perform a strand test. Apply the toner to a small, inconspicuous section of your hair to see how it reacts and ensure you achieve the desired color. This is crucial to avoid unwanted results.
Preparation: Gather your supplies, including the toner, developer, gloves, mixing bowl, application brush, and a timer. Protect your clothing with an old towel or cape.
Mixing the Toner: Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for mixing the toner and developer. Use the correct ratio to ensure the toner works properly.
Application: Apply the toner evenly to your highlighted strands, starting at the roots and working your way to the ends. Ensure that all the highlighted hair is saturated with the toner.
Processing Time: Allow the toner to process for the recommended time, typically 10-20 minutes. Check the color periodically to ensure it’s developing as desired. Over-processing can lead to overly cool or ashy tones.
Rinsing and Conditioning: Rinse the toner thoroughly with cool water. Apply a moisturizing conditioner to help rehydrate the hair and seal the cuticle.
Drying and Styling: Dry and style your hair as usual. Assess the color in natural light to ensure you’re happy with the results.
Potential Problems and How to Avoid Them
While toning can be a simple process, there are potential problems that can arise. Knowing how to avoid these issues will help you achieve the best possible results.
Over-Toning: This occurs when the toner is left on for too long, resulting in overly cool or ashy tones. To avoid over-toning, carefully monitor the processing time and perform a strand test beforehand.
Uneven Toning: This can happen if the toner is not applied evenly, resulting in patchy or uneven color. To prevent this, ensure that all highlighted strands are fully saturated with the toner.
Brassy Roots: Sometimes, the roots can become brassy even after toning. This can happen if the roots were not lifted to a light enough level during the highlighting process. To correct this, you may need to re-highlight the roots or use a stronger toner.
Damage to Hair: While toners are generally less damaging than bleach, they can still cause dryness and breakage, especially if used frequently or on already damaged hair. To minimize damage, use a low-volume developer and a moisturizing conditioner.
Incorrect Toner Selection: Choosing the wrong toner can lead to unwanted results. For example, using a purple toner on orange hair can result in a muddy or dull color. Consult with a stylist or use a color chart to select the appropriate toner for your hair.
Maintaining Your Toned Highlights
Once you’ve achieved your perfect toned highlights, it’s important to maintain the color to prevent fading and brassiness.
Use Color-Safe Shampoo and Conditioner: These products are formulated to be gentle on colored hair and will help to prevent color fading.
Avoid Excessive Heat Styling: Heat styling can damage the hair and cause color to fade more quickly. Use heat protectant products and try to limit your use of heat styling tools.
Use Purple Shampoo and Conditioner Regularly: These products will help to neutralize yellow tones and keep your blonde bright.
Get Regular Toner Touch-Ups: Depending on how quickly your color fades, you may need to get a toner touch-up every 4-6 weeks.
Protect Your Hair from the Sun: The sun can cause hair color to fade and become brassy. Wear a hat or use a hair product with UV protection when spending time outdoors.
When to Seek Professional Help
While at-home toning can be successful, there are certain situations when it’s best to seek professional help.
Complex Color Corrections: If you have significant brassiness or uneven color, it’s best to consult with a stylist. They have the expertise and products to correct the color and achieve the desired result.
Damaged Hair: If your hair is already damaged, it’s important to have a professional assess its condition before toning. They can recommend the best toner and application method to minimize further damage.
Unsure About Toner Selection: If you’re unsure about which toner to use, it’s best to consult with a stylist. They can help you choose the right toner for your hair color and desired result.
Significant Color Change: If you’re looking for a significant color change, such as going from warm blonde to ash blonde, it’s best to have a professional do it. They have the experience and skill to achieve the desired result without damaging your hair.
Toning is an essential step in achieving and maintaining beautiful highlights. By understanding the process, selecting the right products, and following the proper techniques, you can achieve your dream hair color and keep your blonde looking its best. Remember to always prioritize the health of your hair and seek professional help when needed.
What exactly does toning do to highlights?
Toning highlights is a process that adjusts the color and shade of your blonde highlights. It doesn’t lighten or darken the hair drastically like dye, but instead, it deposits pigment to neutralize unwanted tones, such as brassiness (yellow/orange hues) or too much warmth. Think of it as fine-tuning the color to achieve the desired cool, neutral, or warm blonde.
The toner essentially counteracts the underlying pigments that are exposed when hair is lightened. This results in a more polished and refined blonde. Toners can also add shine and dimension, making highlights appear more vibrant and healthy. They are crucial for achieving the perfect shade of blonde and maintaining its longevity.
How long does toner typically last on highlights?
The longevity of toner on highlights generally ranges from 2 to 6 weeks, depending on several factors. The porosity of your hair plays a significant role; more porous hair tends to absorb and release toner faster. How often you wash your hair, the type of shampoo you use (sulfate-free is recommended), and exposure to heat styling can also impact how long the toner lasts.
To prolong the life of your toner, use color-safe shampoos and conditioners specifically designed for blonde hair. These products often contain pigments that help to maintain the desired tone. Additionally, minimizing heat styling and using heat protectant sprays can help prevent the toner from fading quickly. Avoid chlorine and excessive sun exposure, as these can also strip the toner from your hair.
Can I tone my highlights at home, or should I always go to a salon?
Toning highlights at home is possible, but it requires caution and research. If you have experience with hair color and understand color theory, you can often achieve satisfactory results. However, it’s crucial to choose the correct toner based on your existing hair color and desired outcome. Over-toning or using the wrong toner can lead to undesirable results, such as muddy or overly ashy tones.
For those new to toning or if you’re unsure about the process, it’s generally recommended to visit a salon. A professional colorist can assess your hair’s condition, recommend the appropriate toner, and apply it evenly for a flawless finish. They can also correct any underlying issues, such as uneven lightening, before applying the toner, ensuring a more predictable and beautiful result.
What happens if I leave the toner on my highlights for too long?
Leaving toner on your highlights for too long can result in over-toning, which can lead to unwanted color shifts. For example, if you’re using a purple toner to neutralize yellow tones, leaving it on for too long could result in a lavender or ashy hue. The effects are often temporary and can be corrected, but it’s best to avoid the situation altogether.
The severity of the over-toning depends on the strength of the toner and the porosity of your hair. Porous hair absorbs toner more quickly, increasing the risk of over-toning. Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully and perform a strand test before applying the toner to your entire head. If you’re unsure, it’s better to err on the side of caution and rinse the toner off sooner rather than later.
What is the best way to prevent brassiness in my highlights?
Preventing brassiness in highlights involves a multi-pronged approach. Firstly, use a sulfate-free shampoo and conditioner formulated for color-treated hair, especially blonde hair. These products are gentler on the hair and won’t strip away the toner as quickly. Incorporating a purple shampoo or conditioner into your routine once or twice a week can also help neutralize yellow tones.
Secondly, protect your hair from heat styling and sun exposure. High temperatures can accelerate the fading of toner and exacerbate brassiness. Use heat protectant sprays before using any styling tools, and consider wearing a hat or using hair products with UV protection when spending time outdoors. Regular toning appointments will also help maintain the desired color and prevent brassiness from becoming too prominent.
Can toning damage my highlights?
Toning, in itself, is generally not damaging to highlights, especially when performed correctly. In fact, toners often contain conditioning agents that can actually improve the overall health and shine of the hair. However, the developer used with the toner can potentially cause some dryness or damage, especially if it’s a high-volume developer.
The key to minimizing any potential damage is to use a low-volume developer (e.g., 10 volume) and to ensure that your hair is properly hydrated and conditioned both before and after toning. Avoid over-processing your hair by limiting the frequency of toning and deep conditioning regularly. If your hair feels dry or brittle after toning, use a moisturizing hair mask to restore hydration and elasticity.
What are some common mistakes people make when toning highlights?
One common mistake is choosing the wrong toner for their hair color. Understanding the underlying tones in your highlights and selecting a toner that will effectively neutralize them is crucial. Using a toner that is too cool or too warm can result in an undesirable color. For instance, using a blue-based toner on already ashy blonde can turn the hair green.
Another mistake is applying the toner unevenly or leaving it on for too long. Uneven application can lead to patchy results, while over-processing can result in over-toned hair. It’s important to carefully follow the instructions on the toner packaging and to perform a strand test before applying the toner to the entire head. Proper mixing and application techniques are key to achieving a consistent and beautiful result.