Achieving the perfect blonde is a journey, and for many, that journey includes battling the dreaded orange tones. You’ve lightened your hair, perhaps a few times, and now you’re staring at a brassy, orange hue in the mirror. Enter Wella T18 toner, a product often touted as a savior for blonde aspirations. But the burning question remains: does Wella T18 toner actually work on orange hair? Let’s dive deep into the science, the application, and the realities of using this popular toner to achieve your desired blonde.
Understanding Orange Tones in Hair
Before we can determine if Wella T18 is the right solution, we need to understand why orange tones appear in the first place. It all boils down to melanin, the pigment responsible for hair color.
The Role of Melanin
Melanin comes in two primary forms: eumelanin (responsible for brown and black pigments) and pheomelanin (responsible for red and yellow pigments). When you lighten your hair, you’re essentially breaking down these melanin pigments. Eumelanin is easier to break down, leaving behind the more stubborn pheomelanin, which manifests as orange or yellow tones.
The Hair Lightening Process
The lightening process doesn’t remove all the pigment at once. It’s a gradual process, and depending on your natural hair color and the strength of the lightener, you may end up with varying levels of orange or yellow. Darker hair typically pulls more orange, while lighter brown hair might pull more yellow.
What is Wella T18 Toner and How Does It Work?
Wella T18, often called “White Lady,” is a popular demi-permanent toner designed to neutralize unwanted yellow and brassy tones in lightened hair. It’s a staple in many hairstylists’ kits and a go-to for those attempting to achieve a cool-toned blonde at home.
The Science Behind Toner
Toner works based on the principles of color theory. In essence, it deposits pigment onto the hair to counteract unwanted tones. Wella T18 contains violet and blue pigments. These colors are opposite to yellow and orange on the color wheel, respectively. By depositing these pigments, the toner neutralizes the brassiness, leaving you with a cooler, more neutral blonde.
How Wella T18 Neutralizes Tones
The violet pigments in T18 primarily target yellow tones. However, the blue undertones can offer some neutralization of orange, but the efficacy depends heavily on the intensity of the orange. If the orange is too strong, T18 may not be potent enough to fully neutralize it.
Can Wella T18 Correct Orange Hair? The Truth
This is the million-dollar question. The short answer is: it depends. Wella T18 is best suited for neutralizing pale yellow tones. It’s not a magic bullet for intense orange hair.
Severity of the Orange Tones
The key factor is the intensity of the orange. If your hair is a light, subtle orange or a yellow-orange, T18 might be effective. However, if you’re dealing with a deep, vibrant orange, T18 will likely not be strong enough to completely neutralize it. You might see some improvement, but the orange will likely still be visible.
The Level of Your Hair
Wella T18 is formulated for hair that has been lightened to a level 9 or 10. This means your hair needs to be a very pale yellow for the toner to work as intended. If your hair is darker than a level 9 and has orange tones, the toner won’t be as effective because the underlying orange pigment will still be too strong.
Porousity and Hair Condition
The porosity of your hair also plays a crucial role. Porous hair absorbs toner more quickly, which can lead to uneven results or the toner grabbing too much, resulting in a violet tint. Damaged hair tends to be more porous. Healthy, less porous hair will process the toner more evenly.
What To Do If Wella T18 Isn’t Enough
So, what if you’ve tried Wella T18 and your hair is still stubbornly orange? Don’t despair! There are other options available.
Re-Lightening with Caution
One option is to lighten your hair again. However, this should be done with extreme caution, as over-processing can lead to damage and breakage. Consider using a lower volume developer (10 or 20 volume) to minimize damage and carefully monitor the lightening process. A protein treatment prior to lightening can help prepare and strengthen the hair.
Using a Stronger Toner or Color Corrector
If your hair is too orange for T18, you may need a stronger toner or a color corrector with more blue pigment. Look for toners specifically designed to neutralize orange tones. These toners often have a blue or blue-violet base. A color wheel is your friend. Understanding where your current shade falls and what color will neutralize it will help immensely.
Color Depositing Shampoos and Conditioners
Blue or purple shampoos and conditioners can help to maintain the results of toning and gradually neutralize orange tones over time. These products deposit small amounts of pigment with each use. These are great for maintenance, but may not be strong enough to correct significant orange tones.
Seeking Professional Help
If you’re unsure about how to proceed, it’s always best to consult a professional hairstylist. A stylist can assess your hair’s condition, determine the best course of action, and apply the necessary products safely and effectively. A professional color correction may be the best solution, especially if you’ve already attempted to correct the color yourself with limited success.
How to Use Wella T18 Toner Correctly (If Your Hair is Light Enough)
If your hair is light enough (level 9 or 10 with minimal orange tones), here’s how to use Wella T18 toner correctly:
Gather Your Supplies
You’ll need:
- Wella T18 toner
- 20 volume developer
- Mixing bowl
- Applicator brush
- Gloves
- Old towel
- Timer
Mixing the Toner
Mix the toner with the 20 volume developer in a 1:2 ratio (one part toner to two parts developer). For example, if you’re using one tube of Wella T18 (1.4 oz), you’ll need 2.8 oz of developer.
Applying the Toner
Apply the toner evenly to damp, towel-dried hair. Start at the roots and work your way down to the ends. Ensure that all strands are saturated with the toner mixture.
Processing Time
The processing time for Wella T18 is typically 30 minutes. However, it’s crucial to monitor your hair closely during processing. Check the color every 5-10 minutes to ensure you’re achieving the desired result and to prevent over-toning.
Rinsing and Conditioning
Once the toner has processed for the appropriate amount of time, rinse your hair thoroughly with cool water. Follow with a moisturizing conditioner to help rehydrate the hair.
Common Mistakes to Avoid When Using Wella T18
Avoiding these common mistakes can help you achieve the best possible results:
Using Too High a Developer Volume
Using a developer volume higher than 20 can damage your hair and cause uneven toning. 20 volume is generally recommended for toning.
Leaving the Toner on Too Long
Over-toning can result in a violet or grey tint to your hair. Closely monitor the processing time and rinse when you’ve achieved the desired result.
Applying to Unevenly Lightened Hair
If your hair is not evenly lightened, the toner will accentuate the unevenness. Ensure your hair is as evenly lightened as possible before toning.
Skipping a Strand Test
Always perform a strand test before applying the toner to your entire head. This will allow you to see how the toner will affect your hair and adjust the processing time accordingly.
Ignoring Hair Porosity
Highly porous hair will absorb the toner more quickly. Reduce the processing time or use a protein filler before toning to even out porosity.
Maintaining Your Toned Blonde
Once you’ve achieved your desired blonde, maintaining it is key. Here are some tips:
Use Sulfate-Free Shampoo
Sulfate-free shampoos are gentler on your hair and will help to prevent color fading.
Use Purple Shampoo and Conditioner
Incorporate purple shampoo and conditioner into your routine to help neutralize any brassiness that may develop over time. Use sparingly, as overuse can lead to a violet tint.
Avoid Heat Styling
Excessive heat styling can damage your hair and cause color to fade. Use heat protectant products when heat styling.
Regular Deep Conditioning Treatments
Deep conditioning treatments will help to keep your hair hydrated and healthy, which will in turn help to maintain your color.
Sun Protection
Protect your hair from the sun with a hat or scarf, as UV rays can cause color fading and damage.
Conclusion: Wella T18 and Orange Hair – A Realistic Perspective
Wella T18 is a fantastic toner for neutralizing light yellow tones in hair that has been lightened to a level 9 or 10. However, it’s not a miracle worker for intense orange tones. If your hair is significantly orange, you may need to re-lighten, use a stronger toner, or seek professional help. By understanding the principles of color theory, assessing the condition of your hair, and using the right products and techniques, you can achieve your dream blonde while minimizing damage and frustration. Always prioritize the health of your hair and don’t be afraid to seek professional advice when needed. Remember that achieving the perfect blonde is a process, and patience and careful attention to detail are key.
What exactly is Wella T18 toner, and how does it work to neutralize orange tones in hair?
Wella T18 is an ammonia-based toner designed to neutralize unwanted brassy or orange tones in bleached or lightened hair. It’s formulated with violet and blue pigments, which are opposite orange on the color wheel. When applied to hair that has been lifted to a pale yellow or light blonde shade with orange undertones, these pigments deposit onto the hair shaft and counteract the warm tones. The ammonia in the toner opens the hair cuticle, allowing the color to penetrate and effectively neutralize the underlying orange.
The toner doesn’t lift or lighten the hair further; its primary function is color correction. Therefore, it’s crucial that your hair is already light enough (generally a level 9 or 10) for the T18 toner to work effectively. Applying it to hair that is too dark will result in little to no change, and you may end up with a muddy or uneven tone. It’s important to remember that toner is a finishing step, not a substitute for proper bleaching or lightening.
What hair levels are ideal for using Wella T18, and what happens if my hair is too dark?
Wella T18 is most effective on hair that has been pre-lightened to a level 9 or 10, which is considered a pale yellow or light blonde. At these levels, the orange or yellow undertones are already minimized, and the toner can effectively deposit its violet and blue pigments to create a balanced, cool-toned blonde. This ensures the toner can neutralize any remaining brassiness, resulting in a true, ash blonde finish.
If your hair is darker than a level 9 or 10, applying Wella T18 will likely result in minimal to no change. The toner’s pigments are not strong enough to counteract the more intense orange or yellow tones present in darker shades. In some cases, applying T18 to darker hair can even create a muddy or dull appearance. It’s essential to lighten your hair to the appropriate level before using T18 for the best results. Consider using a bleach or lightening product to achieve the necessary lightness before toning.
What developer volume should I use with Wella T18, and why is it important to choose the right one?
The recommended developer volume for Wella T18 toner is 10 volume. This low volume is sufficient for opening the hair cuticle enough to allow the toner pigments to deposit without further lifting or damaging the hair. Using a higher volume developer is unnecessary and can potentially cause over-processing, dryness, and breakage, especially on already lightened hair. The goal is color deposit, not additional lightening.
Choosing the correct developer volume is crucial for maintaining the health and integrity of your hair. A developer that is too strong can lead to irreversible damage, making the hair brittle and prone to breakage. 10 volume developer provides the ideal balance for gentle color deposition and minimal damage, ensuring that your hair remains healthy and vibrant after toning. Adhering to the recommended developer volume is essential for achieving the desired results without compromising the condition of your hair.
How long should I leave Wella T18 on my hair, and what are the risks of leaving it on for too long?
The recommended processing time for Wella T18 toner is typically 30 minutes. However, it’s crucial to monitor your hair closely throughout the process and adjust the timing based on your individual hair and desired results. Factors such as hair porosity and the intensity of the brassy tones can influence how quickly the toner takes effect. Regularly checking your hair color will help you determine when the desired level of neutralization has been achieved.
Leaving Wella T18 toner on for too long can result in over-toning, which can lead to your hair taking on a lavender or even a gray or ashy appearance. This is because the violet and blue pigments in the toner will deposit excessively, creating an unwanted cool tone. Over-toned hair can also become dry and brittle due to prolonged exposure to the chemicals in the toner. Therefore, careful monitoring and adhering to the recommended processing time are essential to prevent unwanted side effects.
What are some common mistakes people make when using Wella T18, and how can I avoid them?
One common mistake is applying Wella T18 to hair that isn’t light enough. As mentioned earlier, T18 works best on hair that’s already a level 9 or 10. Applying it to darker hair won’t effectively neutralize orange tones and can result in an uneven or muddy color. Another mistake is using the wrong developer volume. Opting for a higher volume than 10 can cause unnecessary damage and dryness. Always ensure your hair is at the correct level and use the recommended developer.
Another frequent error is neglecting to perform a strand test before applying the toner to the entire head. A strand test allows you to assess how your hair will react to the toner and determine the optimal processing time. Skipping this step can lead to unpredictable results and potential disappointment. Finally, some people fail to properly section their hair during application, leading to uneven coverage. Sectioning the hair ensures that the toner is applied evenly and thoroughly, resulting in a more consistent and professional-looking result.
What are some alternative toners to Wella T18 if I can’t find it or want a different effect?
If Wella T18 is unavailable or you’re seeking a different toning effect, several alternative toners can provide similar results. Ion Color Brilliance Bright White Creme Toner in Snow White is a popular choice known for its ability to neutralize yellow and brassy tones effectively. Another option is Redken Shades EQ Gloss, a demi-permanent hair color that provides a gentler toning experience with a wide range of shades to customize your desired result.
Additionally, you can consider using a purple shampoo or mask to maintain and enhance the cool tones in your blonde hair. These products contain violet pigments that help neutralize yellow and brassy tones over time. While they may not provide the same immediate transformation as a toner, they’re a great way to prolong the life of your toned hair and keep it looking fresh. Always perform a strand test with any new toner or product to ensure you achieve the desired result without unwanted side effects.
How can I maintain my toned hair after using Wella T18 to prevent brassiness from returning?
To maintain your toned hair and prevent brassiness from returning, implementing a proper hair care routine is essential. Start by using a sulfate-free shampoo and conditioner specifically designed for color-treated hair. Sulfates can strip the hair of its natural oils and cause the toner to fade faster, leading to the reappearance of brassy tones. Look for products that are formulated to protect color and prolong its vibrancy.
Furthermore, incorporate a purple shampoo or conditioner into your routine once or twice a week. These products contain violet pigments that help neutralize any yellow or brassy tones that may start to emerge. Limit your exposure to heat styling, as excessive heat can damage the hair and cause the toner to fade more quickly. When you do use heat styling tools, always apply a heat protectant spray to minimize damage. Finally, consider using a hair gloss or glaze every few weeks to refresh the tone and add shine to your hair.