Brassy hair. It’s the bane of many a bleached blonde’s existence. That unwelcome warm, yellow, or orange tinge that creeps in after lightening your hair can be frustrating, to say the least. But fear not! If you’re battling brassiness, you’re not alone, and more importantly, you have options. The question isn’t if you can dye brassy bleached hair, but how to do it effectively and safely.
Understanding Brassy Hair and Why It Happens
Before we dive into the solutions, let’s understand the problem. Brassiness occurs when you bleach your hair because the bleaching process doesn’t just strip out pigment; it also reveals underlying tones.
When hair is lightened, it goes through several stages, from dark brown to red, orange, yellow, and finally, pale yellow (the ideal base for a true blonde). If the bleaching process isn’t taken far enough, or if your hair is naturally very dark, those warm undertones (red, orange, and yellow) can remain.
These undertones are further exacerbated by several factors. Sun exposure, hard water, and even certain hair products can contribute to brassiness over time. Oxidization also plays a role, as the dye molecules fade, revealing the underlying warmth.
Assessing the Level of Brassiness
The first step in tackling brassiness is to accurately assess the level of warmth present in your hair. Is it a subtle yellow, a more pronounced orange, or even a reddish tinge? This assessment will determine the best course of action and the type of dye you’ll need.
A helpful trick is to compare your hair color to a color wheel. Identify the primary color of the brassiness (yellow, orange, or red) and then look directly across the wheel to find its complementary color.
Yellow’s complementary color is violet or purple. Orange’s is blue. Red’s is green. These complementary colors are what you’ll use to neutralize the brassiness.
Choosing the Right Dye for Brassy Hair
Now that you understand the underlying cause of brassiness and have assessed its severity, you can choose the right dye to correct it. Several options are available, each with its pros and cons.
Toner: The Go-To for Mild Brassiness
Toners are semi-permanent dyes that deposit color onto the hair without lifting the existing shade. They’re perfect for neutralizing mild brassiness and adding shine.
Toners typically contain violet or blue pigments to counteract yellow and orange tones. They are often mixed with a developer (usually a low-volume one, like 10 or 20 volume) to help the color deposit evenly.
Look for toners specifically formulated for blonde or brassy hair. Read the product descriptions carefully to ensure they target the specific tones you’re trying to neutralize.
Demi-Permanent Dye: A Step Up for More Pronounced Brassiness
If your brassiness is more intense than a toner can handle, a demi-permanent dye might be a better option. Demi-permanent dyes also deposit color, but they contain a small amount of peroxide, which allows them to penetrate the hair shaft slightly deeper.
This makes them more effective at covering stubborn brassiness and lasting longer than toners. However, they still won’t lift the existing hair color, so they’re a safer choice than permanent dyes.
When selecting a demi-permanent dye, again, look for shades with violet, blue, or green undertones, depending on the type of brassiness you’re dealing with.
Permanent Dye: For Significant Color Change and Brassiness Correction
Permanent dye is the most powerful option for correcting brassiness, but it should be used with caution. Permanent dyes can lift the existing hair color and deposit a new shade, making them suitable for significant color changes and covering resistant brassiness.
However, permanent dyes can also be damaging to the hair, especially if it’s already been bleached. If you choose to use a permanent dye, opt for a shade close to your desired color and perform a strand test first to assess the results.
Remember to prioritize hair health by using a lower volume developer and deep conditioning treatments.
Color-Depositing Shampoos and Conditioners: Maintenance and Prevention
While not a solution for correcting existing brassiness, color-depositing shampoos and conditioners can be excellent for maintaining your color and preventing brassiness from returning.
These products contain small amounts of pigment that deposit onto the hair with each use, helping to keep the color fresh and vibrant. Violet shampoos are particularly popular for blonde hair, as they neutralize yellow tones.
Use these products as directed, typically once or twice a week, to prolong the life of your dye job and keep brassiness at bay.
The Dyeing Process: Step-by-Step Guide
Regardless of the type of dye you choose, the dyeing process is generally the same. Here’s a step-by-step guide to dyeing brassy bleached hair:
- Preparation: Gather your supplies. You’ll need the dye or toner, developer (if required), a mixing bowl, a tint brush, gloves, a towel to protect your clothing, and clips to section your hair.
- Strand Test: This is crucial, especially when using permanent or demi-permanent dye. Apply the dye to a small, hidden section of your hair to see how it reacts and ensure you like the color.
- Mixing the Dye: Follow the instructions on the product packaging to mix the dye and developer (if needed) correctly.
- Sectioning the Hair: Divide your hair into four sections: two in the front and two in the back. This will make the application process easier and more even.
- Applying the Dye: Starting at the roots, apply the dye evenly to each section of your hair, working your way down to the ends. Ensure all strands are thoroughly saturated.
- Processing Time: Follow the instructions on the product packaging for the recommended processing time. Do not leave the dye on for longer than recommended, as this can damage your hair.
- Rinsing and Conditioning: Once the processing time is up, rinse your hair thoroughly with cool water until the water runs clear. Then, apply a deep conditioner to help restore moisture and shine.
- Drying and Styling: Gently towel-dry your hair and style as usual. Avoid using heat styling tools for a few days to give your hair a chance to recover.
Tips for Achieving the Best Results
- Read the Instructions Carefully: This might seem obvious, but it’s essential to read and follow the instructions on the dye packaging precisely.
- Use Quality Products: Invest in high-quality dyes and toners from reputable brands. This will help ensure the best results and minimize damage to your hair.
- Protect Your Hair: Bleached hair is more porous and prone to damage, so it’s crucial to protect it. Use heat protectant sprays when styling and avoid over-washing.
- Consider a Professional: If you’re unsure about dyeing your hair at home, consider visiting a professional hairstylist. They can assess your hair’s condition, recommend the best products, and ensure a flawless result.
- Don’t Overdo It: Avoid bleaching your hair too frequently, as this can cause significant damage. Space out your bleaching sessions and focus on maintaining your color in between.
Maintaining Your Color and Preventing Brassiness
Once you’ve corrected the brassiness in your hair, it’s essential to take steps to maintain your color and prevent it from returning.
- Use Sulfate-Free Shampoos: Sulfates can strip the color from your hair, leading to brassiness. Choose sulfate-free shampoos and conditioners specifically designed for color-treated hair.
- Use a Violet Shampoo Regularly: As mentioned earlier, violet shampoo is excellent for neutralizing yellow tones and keeping blonde hair bright.
- Avoid Hard Water: Hard water contains minerals that can deposit onto the hair and contribute to brassiness. Install a shower filter to remove these minerals.
- Protect Your Hair from the Sun: UV rays can fade hair color and exacerbate brassiness. Wear a hat or use a hair product with UV protection when spending time in the sun.
- Deep Condition Regularly: Bleached hair needs extra moisture, so deep condition your hair at least once a week to keep it healthy and hydrated.
- Consider a Glaze: A glaze is a semi-permanent color treatment that adds shine and helps to seal the hair cuticle, preventing color from fading.
When to Seek Professional Help
While dyeing brassy hair at home is possible, there are times when it’s best to seek professional help.
- If Your Hair Is Severely Damaged: If your hair is already dry, brittle, or damaged from previous bleaching, attempting to dye it yourself could make the problem worse. A professional stylist can assess your hair’s condition and recommend the best course of action.
- If You’re Unsure About the Process: If you’re nervous or unsure about any aspect of the dyeing process, it’s always better to err on the side of caution and consult a professional.
- If You’re Trying to Achieve a Significant Color Change: If you’re trying to go from dark to light or achieve a complex color, it’s best to leave it to the professionals. They have the expertise and experience to achieve the desired result without damaging your hair.
- If You’ve Had Previous Negative Experiences: If you’ve had bad experiences dyeing your hair at home in the past, it’s probably best to let a professional handle it.
Dealing with brassy bleached hair can be frustrating, but it’s certainly not a hopeless situation. By understanding the causes of brassiness, assessing its severity, choosing the right dye, and following the correct dyeing process, you can achieve the beautiful, bright blonde you’ve always wanted. Remember to prioritize hair health, maintain your color with proper care, and don’t hesitate to seek professional help when needed. With a little patience and effort, you can say goodbye to brassiness and hello to gorgeous, radiant hair!
Additional Considerations for Specific Hair Types
The advice above generally applies to most hair types, but there are some additional considerations depending on your hair’s texture and porosity.
Fine Hair
Fine hair tends to be more delicate and prone to damage. When dyeing fine, brassy hair, use lower volume developers (10 volume or less) and shorten the processing time to minimize damage. Deep conditioning treatments are crucial for maintaining moisture and preventing breakage.
Thick Hair
Thick hair can be more resistant to dye, so you may need to use a slightly higher volume developer (20 volume) and leave the dye on for the full recommended processing time. Ensure that all strands are thoroughly saturated with the dye to achieve even coverage.
Curly Hair
Curly hair is naturally drier than straight hair, so it’s essential to use moisturizing dyes and deep conditioning treatments. Avoid over-processing curly hair, as this can disrupt the curl pattern and lead to frizz. Consider using a glaze or toner specifically formulated for curly hair to enhance shine and reduce brassiness.
Damaged Hair
If your hair is already damaged from previous bleaching or heat styling, focus on repairing the damage before attempting to dye it. Use protein treatments to strengthen the hair and deep conditioning treatments to restore moisture. When you’re ready to dye, use a gentle toner or color-depositing shampoo to minimize further damage.
FAQ 1: What causes bleached hair to turn brassy?
Brassy tones in bleached hair are primarily caused by the underlying pigments that are exposed during the bleaching process. Bleach lifts color from the hair, and if the process isn’t sufficient to remove all the warm tones (red, orange, and yellow), those warm hues can become more prominent as the cooler pigments fade. Environmental factors and styling habits also contribute, such as sun exposure, hard water minerals, and the use of heat styling tools without adequate protection.
Oxidation also plays a role in brassiness. Over time, the melanin in your hair reacts with oxygen in the air, causing the warm undertones to surface. Shampooing, especially with sulfate-rich products, can strip the hair of its protective oils, making it more susceptible to oxidation and further exacerbating the brassy appearance. Moreover, build-up from styling products can also cling to the hair shaft and reflect warmth, contributing to the overall brassiness.
FAQ 2: Can you dye brassy bleached hair a darker color?
Yes, you can dye brassy bleached hair a darker color, and it’s often a very effective way to neutralize the unwanted warmth. Choosing a shade darker than your current brassy tone allows the new color to cover up the underlying warmth. However, it’s crucial to select a shade with cool undertones (such as ash, violet, or blue) to counteract the brassy orange or yellow tones.
It’s also essential to perform a strand test before applying the dye to your entire head. This helps you determine how the dye will take to your hair and whether the chosen shade effectively neutralizes the brassiness. In some cases, you might need to use a color corrector or toner before applying the darker dye to ensure an even and desired color result. A protein filler may also be helpful to prep damaged hair for the dye.
FAQ 3: How does toner help with brassy hair?
Toner is a semi-permanent hair color product specifically designed to neutralize unwanted tones in bleached or lightened hair. It works by depositing complementary pigments onto the hair shaft to counteract the brassy hues. For example, purple or blue toners are used to combat yellow and orange tones, respectively, effectively creating a more balanced and neutral color.
The effectiveness of toner lies in its ability to deposit subtle color without significantly altering the overall lightness of the hair. Unlike permanent dyes, toners don’t lift the hair’s natural pigment, making them a gentler option for maintaining color between salon visits. They are particularly useful for extending the life of blonde or highlighted hair and keeping brassiness at bay.
FAQ 4: What are some DIY methods for removing brassiness from bleached hair?
Several DIY methods can help combat brassiness at home, although their effectiveness can vary depending on the severity of the brassiness and your hair’s porosity. Purple shampoo is a popular choice, containing violet pigments that neutralize yellow tones. Apple cider vinegar rinses can also help balance the hair’s pH and remove product build-up that contributes to brassiness.
Another DIY option involves creating a DIY hair mask using ingredients like crushed blueberries or beetroot juice, both known for their natural color-correcting properties. While these methods may offer temporary relief from brassiness, remember that they are not permanent solutions and may need to be repeated regularly to maintain the desired tone. It’s crucial to patch test any new ingredients to avoid allergic reactions.
FAQ 5: What are the risks of dyeing brassy bleached hair?
Dyeing brassy bleached hair, while often effective, carries potential risks, particularly if the hair is already damaged from the bleaching process. Overlapping dyes, especially permanent ones, can further weaken the hair structure, leading to breakage, dryness, and split ends. It’s crucial to assess the hair’s condition before applying any more chemicals.
Another risk involves uneven color absorption, especially if the hair is porous or has varying levels of brassiness. This can result in a patchy or uneven color result. Additionally, incorrect color choices can lead to an undesirable shade that is difficult to correct. If you are uncertain about your hair’s condition or color selection, it’s best to consult a professional stylist.
FAQ 6: How can I prevent brassiness in bleached hair?
Preventing brassiness is crucial for maintaining the health and vibrancy of bleached hair. Using sulfate-free shampoos and conditioners is essential, as sulfates can strip the hair of its natural oils and make it more susceptible to brassiness. Incorporating a purple shampoo into your routine once or twice a week can also help neutralize any developing yellow tones.
Protecting your hair from environmental factors is equally important. Minimizing sun exposure by wearing a hat or using a UV protectant spray can help prevent oxidation and fading. Investing in a water filter for your shower can reduce the amount of minerals that contribute to brassiness. Regularly using deep conditioning treatments will help keep your hair hydrated and less prone to damage.
FAQ 7: When should I seek professional help for dyeing brassy hair?
Seeking professional help is advisable when dealing with significant brassiness, especially if you are unsure about color selection or have previously damaged hair. A professional stylist can assess your hair’s condition, recommend the appropriate color and treatment options, and ensure a more even and predictable result. They have access to professional-grade products and techniques that can minimize damage.
Additionally, if you have a history of allergic reactions to hair dye or are attempting a significant color change, consulting a professional is essential. They can perform a strand test to check for sensitivities and ensure the chosen color is achievable and flattering. Trying to correct drastic color issues at home can often lead to further damage and disappointment.