Bleaching black hair is a significant undertaking, a chemical process that demands careful consideration and precise execution. Choosing the correct developer volume is paramount to achieving your desired level of lift without causing irreparable damage. This guide will navigate you through the complexities of developer selection, helping you make an informed decision that respects the integrity of your hair while achieving stunning results.
Understanding Hair Developer: The Foundation of Hair Lightening
Hair developer, also known as peroxide, is the activating agent that works in conjunction with hair bleach. It opens the hair cuticle, allowing the bleach to penetrate and dissolve the natural melanin pigments responsible for your hair’s color. The volume of the developer indicates its strength, with higher volumes containing a higher concentration of hydrogen peroxide. This concentration directly affects the lifting power and the potential for damage. Selecting the right developer hinges on your hair’s current color, condition, and desired level of lightness.
The Role of Hydrogen Peroxide Concentration
The concentration of hydrogen peroxide is the defining characteristic of each developer volume. A higher concentration means faster lifting, but it also increases the risk of damage, dryness, and breakage. Conversely, a lower concentration is gentler but might require multiple applications to achieve the desired lightness, potentially leading to more cumulative damage.
Developer Volume Explained: A Breakdown
Understanding the different developer volumes is crucial for successful bleaching. Each volume has specific applications and associated risks. Let’s examine the most commonly used developers:
- 10 Volume Developer: This is the weakest developer, primarily used for depositing color, making subtle shifts in tone, or when lifting is not the primary goal. It’s ideal for toning previously bleached hair or for creating a slight lift in very fine, delicate hair. It deposits more color than it lifts.
- 20 Volume Developer: A versatile option, 20 volume provides a gentle lift, typically lifting 1-2 levels. It’s suitable for covering gray hair, depositing color, and achieving subtle lightening on virgin hair. It’s also a good choice for root touch-ups if you’re already at a lighter level.
- 30 Volume Developer: This is a popular choice for those seeking a more significant lift, typically 2-3 levels. It’s strong enough to lighten dark hair but still requires careful monitoring to avoid damage. 30 volume is often used for initial bleaching sessions, especially on hair that hasn’t been previously processed.
- 40 Volume Developer: The strongest developer readily available for at-home use. It provides the most significant lift, typically 3-4 levels. However, it carries the highest risk of damage and is generally not recommended for beginners or those with compromised hair. This developer should only be considered by experienced individuals with healthy hair, who understand the potential consequences.
- Lower Volume Alternatives (5 or 7 Volume): These are often used with specific color lines or for very delicate toning processes where minimal lift and maximum color deposit is desired.
Assessing Your Hair’s Condition and Type
Before reaching for the developer, perform a thorough assessment of your hair’s current state. Is it virgin (untreated), previously colored, permed, or chemically relaxed? The condition and type of your hair will directly influence the appropriate developer volume.
Virgin vs. Previously Treated Hair
Virgin hair, which hasn’t been subjected to any chemical processes, is generally stronger and more resilient. It can typically withstand higher developer volumes with less risk of damage, though caution is still necessary. Previously treated hair is often more porous and susceptible to damage. Bleaching already processed hair requires a much gentler approach, typically involving lower developer volumes and close monitoring. Consider the history of your hair. The more processes it has endured, the weaker it becomes.
Hair Texture and Density
Fine hair is generally more delicate and prone to damage than coarse hair. Therefore, lower developer volumes are recommended. Coarse hair, while more resilient, may require a slightly higher volume to achieve the desired lift, but still within safe limits. Hair density also plays a role. Denser hair may require more product and potentially slightly longer processing times, but the developer volume should still be chosen based on the overall health and condition of the hair.
Porosity: Understanding Your Hair’s Absorbency
Hair porosity refers to its ability to absorb and retain moisture. High porosity hair absorbs moisture quickly but also loses it just as rapidly. Low porosity hair, on the other hand, is resistant to absorbing moisture. Bleaching can significantly impact hair porosity. High porosity hair is more prone to damage from bleaching, as it absorbs the chemicals more readily. Low porosity hair may require slightly longer processing times to achieve the desired lift. A strand test can help determine your hair’s porosity.
Determining Your Desired Level of Lift
The level of lift you want to achieve is a key factor in developer selection. Lifting black hair to a platinum blonde requires a much stronger developer and multiple sessions than lifting it to a lighter brown or caramel shade.
Understanding Hair Color Levels
Hair color is typically categorized using a level system, ranging from 1 (black) to 10 (lightest blonde). Knowing your starting level and your target level is crucial for choosing the right developer. If you’re starting with level 1 (black) and aiming for level 6 (dark blonde), you’ll need a developer strong enough to lift your hair 5 levels. However, achieving this in a single session is often not advisable, as it significantly increases the risk of damage.
Gradual Lightening vs. Single-Session Transformation
Gradual lightening, achieved through multiple sessions with lower developer volumes, is generally safer and healthier for your hair. It allows you to monitor the condition of your hair and prevent over-processing. A single-session transformation, while tempting, is often riskier, especially when going from black to very light blonde. It typically requires a high developer volume and can lead to significant damage, breakage, and uneven results.
Choosing the Right Developer for Black Hair: Practical Scenarios
Let’s explore some practical scenarios to illustrate how to choose the right developer for bleaching black hair:
- Scenario 1: Lightening Virgin Black Hair to a Dark Brown (Level 4). In this case, a 20 volume developer would likely be sufficient. Since the hair is virgin and only a couple of levels of lift are needed, the 20 volume will provide a gentle and controlled lightening process.
- Scenario 2: Lightening Previously Colored Black Hair to a Medium Blonde (Level 7). This is a more challenging scenario. Starting with a 20 volume developer for the first session is recommended to assess how the hair responds. Depending on the results, a 30 volume developer might be necessary for subsequent sessions, but careful monitoring is crucial. A protein treatment may also be beneficial before the bleaching process begins.
- Scenario 3: Root Touch-Up on Previously Bleached Hair (Already at Level 8). For root touch-ups, a 20 volume developer is usually sufficient to lift the new growth to match the existing blonde. Avoid overlapping the bleach onto previously processed hair, as this can lead to breakage.
- Scenario 4: Lightening Black Hair with Fine Texture to a Caramel Shade (Level 6). Fine hair is more delicate, so a 20 volume developer is recommended to minimize damage. Multiple sessions might be needed to achieve the desired caramel shade.
- Scenario 5: Lightening Chemically Relaxed Black Hair to a Light Brown (Level 5). Chemically relaxed hair is already weakened, so a very gentle approach is necessary. A 10 volume developer should be considered for the first session, followed by a 20 volume developer if needed. Always prioritize the health of your hair over achieving the desired color quickly.
Performing a Strand Test: Your Safety Net
Before applying bleach to your entire head, always perform a strand test. This simple step can save you from potential disaster.
Why a Strand Test is Essential
A strand test allows you to assess how your hair will react to the bleach and developer mixture. It helps you determine the appropriate processing time, the level of lift you can achieve, and whether the chosen developer volume is suitable for your hair. It also allows you to identify any potential allergic reactions or unexpected color results.
How to Conduct a Strand Test
- Select a small, inconspicuous section of your hair, preferably at the nape of your neck.
- Mix a small amount of bleach and developer according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
- Apply the mixture to the selected strand of hair.
- Check the hair every 5-10 minutes to assess the level of lift and any signs of damage.
- Rinse the bleach thoroughly and assess the condition of the hair.
Bleaching Black Hair Safely: Best Practices
Bleaching black hair is a chemical process that requires careful handling and adherence to safety guidelines.
Protecting Your Skin and Scalp
Always wear gloves when handling bleach and developer to protect your skin from irritation. Apply a barrier cream, such as petroleum jelly, to your hairline and ears to prevent staining. Do not apply bleach to a scalp that is irritated, inflamed, or has any open wounds.
Mixing and Application Techniques
Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for mixing bleach and developer. Use a non-metallic bowl and applicator brush. Apply the bleach evenly to your hair, starting at the roots if they are your darkest area. Avoid overlapping the bleach onto previously processed hair.
Monitoring and Processing Time
Check your hair frequently during the bleaching process. Do not exceed the maximum recommended processing time. If you notice any signs of damage, such as excessive breakage or elasticity, rinse the bleach immediately.
Rinsing and Aftercare
Rinse the bleach thoroughly with cool water. Use a color-safe shampoo and conditioner. Apply a deep conditioning treatment to replenish moisture and repair any damage. Avoid using heat styling tools for a few days after bleaching.
Post-Bleach Care: Maintaining Healthy, Beautiful Hair
Bleaching can leave your hair dry, brittle, and prone to damage. Proper post-bleach care is essential for maintaining healthy, beautiful hair.
Hydration and Moisture
Use moisturizing shampoos, conditioners, and deep conditioning treatments regularly. Consider incorporating hair oils and leave-in conditioners into your routine.
Protein Treatments
Protein treatments can help strengthen and repair damaged hair. However, avoid overusing protein treatments, as they can make your hair brittle if used too frequently.
Avoiding Heat Styling
Minimize the use of heat styling tools, such as hair dryers, flat irons, and curling irons. When you do use heat styling tools, use a heat protectant spray.
Regular Trims
Trim your hair regularly to remove split ends and prevent further breakage.
Conclusion: Making an Informed Decision
Choosing the right developer for bleaching black hair is a delicate balance between achieving your desired level of lift and preserving the health of your hair. By understanding the different developer volumes, assessing your hair’s condition, determining your desired level of lift, and following safety guidelines, you can make an informed decision that results in stunning, healthy, and vibrant hair. Remember that patience and gradual lightening are often the key to achieving beautiful blonde hair without compromising the integrity of your strands. If you are unsure, always consult a professional stylist who can assess your hair and recommend the best course of action.
What is developer, and why is it necessary for bleaching black hair?
Developer, also known as hydrogen peroxide, is a key ingredient in the hair bleaching process. It works by opening the hair cuticle, allowing the bleaching agent (typically a powder bleach) to penetrate the hair shaft and dissolve the natural melanin pigments responsible for its color. Without developer, the bleach powder alone would be ineffective in lightening the hair.
Using the correct developer is crucial for achieving the desired level of lift while minimizing damage to the hair. The volume of the developer determines its strength and the speed at which it lifts color. Choosing the appropriate volume is essential to avoid over-processing, breakage, and other forms of hair damage, particularly when working with naturally dark hair.
What developer volume is best for bleaching black hair?
For bleaching black hair, starting with a lower volume developer, such as 20 volume or 30 volume, is generally recommended. 20 volume provides slower, gentler lifting, making it ideal for gradually lightening the hair over multiple sessions and minimizing damage. 30 volume offers a slightly faster lift but still provides a good balance between effectiveness and safety.
Avoid using 40 volume developer directly on the scalp or for overall bleaching of black hair, as it’s significantly stronger and poses a higher risk of damage, scalp irritation, and uneven results. High-volume developers are typically reserved for experienced professionals and specific highlighting techniques where precise control is essential.
Can I use the same developer volume for my roots as for the rest of my hair?
Typically, it’s recommended to use a lower volume developer on your roots compared to the rest of your hair. The roots are closer to the scalp, which generates heat. This heat can accelerate the bleaching process, meaning the roots will lighten faster than the rest of your hair. Using a lower volume developer on the roots helps to prevent “hot roots,” where the roots become significantly lighter than the mid-lengths and ends.
For example, if you used a 30 volume developer on the lengths and ends of your hair, you might choose to use a 20 volume developer on the roots. This strategy ensures a more even lift and reduces the risk of over-processing the delicate new growth. Always monitor the process closely, regardless of the developer volume used.
Is it safe to use a higher developer volume to speed up the bleaching process?
While using a higher developer volume might seem like a quick solution to lighten black hair faster, it’s generally not advisable. Higher volumes of developer, such as 40 volume, can cause significant damage to the hair shaft, leading to breakage, dryness, and increased porosity. The rapid oxidation process associated with higher volumes can also make it more difficult to control the lifting process, resulting in uneven results.
Prioritizing the health of your hair over speed is crucial when bleaching. Gradual lightening with lower volumes and multiple sessions is a safer and more effective approach to achieving your desired shade while minimizing damage. Patience and proper hair care practices are essential for maintaining the integrity of your hair throughout the bleaching process.
What are some signs that my hair is being damaged by the developer?
Several signs indicate that the developer is damaging your hair during the bleaching process. These include increased elasticity (hair stretches excessively and doesn’t return to its original shape), a gummy or mushy texture when wet, and visible breakage or split ends. You might also notice a burning sensation on your scalp, which could indicate chemical burns or severe irritation.
If you experience any of these signs, immediately rinse the bleach and developer mixture from your hair with cool water. Follow up with a deep conditioning treatment or protein mask to help restore moisture and strength to the hair. Consult with a professional hairstylist for further assessment and guidance on repairing the damage.
Can I mix different developer volumes to achieve a specific result?
Yes, you can mix different developer volumes to create a custom developer strength tailored to your specific hair needs and desired results. This technique allows for more precise control over the bleaching process, particularly when addressing different sections of the hair that may require varying levels of lift. For example, you could mix equal parts of 20 volume and 30 volume developer to create a 25 volume developer.
When mixing developers, ensure you use a non-metallic bowl and a whisk to thoroughly combine the two volumes. Always test the mixture on a small, inconspicuous strand of hair before applying it to the entire head to assess the lifting speed and potential for damage. Accurate measurements are essential to achieve the desired developer strength and avoid unpredictable results.
What aftercare is necessary after using developer to bleach black hair?
After bleaching black hair with developer, a comprehensive aftercare routine is essential to maintain its health and prevent further damage. Start with a deep conditioning treatment or hair mask to replenish moisture lost during the bleaching process. Look for products specifically designed for color-treated or damaged hair, containing ingredients like keratin, argan oil, or shea butter.
Incorporate regular protein treatments into your routine to strengthen the hair shaft and reduce breakage. Avoid heat styling tools as much as possible and use a heat protectant spray when you do. Use sulfate-free shampoos and conditioners to prevent stripping the hair of its natural oils and causing dryness. Consider using a leave-in conditioner or hair oil to add extra moisture and shine.