Toning your hair is a fantastic way to refine your color, neutralize unwanted undertones, and add dimension and shine. However, navigating the world of hair toners and developers can feel overwhelming. One of the most common questions is: what volume developer should I use with toner? The answer isn’t always straightforward, as it depends on several factors including your hair’s condition, the type of toner, and your desired results. This comprehensive guide will break down everything you need to know to choose the right developer volume for your toning session.
Understanding the Basics: Toner and Developer
Before diving into specific developer volumes, let’s establish a clear understanding of what toner and developer are and their roles in the hair coloring process.
What is Hair Toner?
Hair toner isn’t a hair dye in the traditional sense. Instead, it’s a demi-permanent hair color product designed to adjust the tone of your hair. It primarily works to neutralize unwanted brassiness (yellow or orange tones) after bleaching or lightening. Toners can also be used to add specific tones, like ash, gold, or violet, to your hair. They deposit color but don’t lift or lighten the hair. Toners come in various forms, including liquid, cream, and glaze.
The Role of Developer
Developer, also known as peroxide, is an oxidizing agent that opens the hair cuticle, allowing the toner to penetrate and deposit pigment. The volume of the developer indicates its strength, measured in percentages. Higher volumes have a greater lifting power, which is usually not desirable when using toner. The developer also activates the toner, enabling it to effectively deposit color and neutralize unwanted tones.
Deciphering Developer Volumes for Toner
Choosing the correct developer volume is crucial for achieving the desired toning results without damaging your hair. Each volume has a specific purpose and impact on the hair. Let’s explore the most common developer volumes used with toner.
5 Volume Developer
5 volume developer is the gentlest option and contains about 1.5% peroxide. It deposits minimal color and is primarily used for subtle toning, color refreshing, and adding shine. It’s ideal for hair that is already very light and healthy, or for situations where you only want a very slight color adjustment. If your hair is porous or prone to damage, 5 volume is a safe bet. It’s also excellent for toning previously toned hair without causing further lifting or damage. This volume is often used with direct dyes mixed with a clear developer.
10 Volume Developer
10 volume developer, containing 3% peroxide, is the most commonly recommended volume for toning. It opens the hair cuticle just enough to allow the toner to deposit color effectively, without significantly lifting the hair. This makes it suitable for most hair types and toning scenarios. 10 volume is perfect for neutralizing brassiness, correcting uneven tones, and adding subtle color dimension. It’s a safe choice for maintaining the health of your hair while achieving noticeable results.
20 Volume Developer (Use with Caution)
20 volume developer contains 6% peroxide and has a slight lifting power. Generally, it’s not recommended for use with toner unless you specifically want to slightly lift the base color along with toning. This might be appropriate if you’re trying to achieve a very specific shade and your hair is resistant to lower volume developers. However, using 20 volume with toner increases the risk of damage and uneven results. It should only be used by experienced colorists or after careful consideration of your hair’s condition and desired outcome. If your hair is already damaged or prone to breakage, avoid using 20 volume developer with toner.
Higher Volume Developers (Not Recommended for Toning)
Volumes higher than 20, such as 30 and 40, are almost never recommended for use with toners. These high volumes are designed for lifting and lightening the hair, not for depositing color or neutralizing tones. Using them with toner can lead to excessive damage, uneven color, and unpredictable results.
Factors Influencing Your Developer Choice
Several factors will influence your choice of developer volume for toner. Understanding these factors is crucial for making an informed decision and achieving the best possible results.
Hair Condition
The condition of your hair is perhaps the most important factor to consider. If your hair is already damaged, dry, or brittle, opting for a lower volume developer, like 5 or 10, is essential to minimize further damage. Damaged hair is more porous and absorbs color more quickly, so a higher volume developer can lead to uneven or overly intense results. Healthy hair can generally tolerate a slightly higher volume, but it’s still best to err on the side of caution.
Desired Result
The specific results you’re hoping to achieve with toner will also influence your developer choice. If you simply want to neutralize brassiness or add a subtle tone, 5 or 10 volume developer will likely suffice. If you’re aiming for a more significant color change or need to lift the base slightly, 20 volume might be considered, but only with careful consideration and professional advice. Be realistic about what toner can achieve – it’s primarily designed to adjust tone, not drastically change your hair color.
Hair Porosity
Hair porosity refers to your hair’s ability to absorb and retain moisture. High porosity hair absorbs color quickly but also loses it quickly. Low porosity hair, on the other hand, is resistant to absorbing color. If you have high porosity hair, a lower volume developer is recommended to prevent over-processing and uneven color. If you have low porosity hair, you might need a slightly higher volume, but proceed with caution and monitor the process closely.
Previous Hair Treatments
If your hair has been recently treated with other chemical processes, such as perms, relaxers, or other coloring treatments, it’s important to take extra precautions. These treatments can weaken the hair and make it more susceptible to damage. In such cases, opting for the lowest possible developer volume is crucial to minimize further stress on your hair. Consult with a professional stylist if you’re unsure about how previous treatments might affect your toning results.
The Toner Formula
The specific toner you’re using will often have recommendations for the appropriate developer volume. Always refer to the manufacturer’s instructions and follow their guidelines. Different toners may be formulated to work best with specific developer volumes. Using the wrong volume can lead to ineffective toning or undesirable results.
Step-by-Step Guide: Toning Your Hair Safely
Now that you understand the different developer volumes and the factors influencing your choice, let’s walk through a step-by-step guide to toning your hair safely and effectively.
Preparation is Key
Before you begin, gather all the necessary supplies: toner, developer, mixing bowl, applicator brush, gloves, a towel to protect your clothing, and a timer. Perform a strand test to assess how your hair will react to the toner and developer mixture. This will help you avoid any surprises and ensure that you achieve the desired results.
Mixing the Toner and Developer
Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for mixing the toner and developer. Typically, the ratio is 1:2 (one part toner to two parts developer), but always double-check the instructions. Use a non-metallic bowl and applicator brush to thoroughly mix the toner and developer until you achieve a smooth, creamy consistency.
Application Technique
Apply the toner to clean, dry hair, starting at the roots and working your way down to the ends. Ensure that all strands are evenly coated with the toner mixture. If you’re targeting specific areas, such as brassy highlights, apply the toner to those areas first.
Processing Time
Refer to the toner instructions for the recommended processing time. Typically, toner needs to process for 10-30 minutes. Keep a close eye on your hair during processing and check the color periodically. If you notice any undesirable changes, rinse the toner out immediately.
Rinsing and Conditioning
Once the processing time is complete, rinse your hair thoroughly with cool water until the water runs clear. Avoid using shampoo immediately after toning, as this can strip the color. Instead, use a color-safe conditioner to hydrate and nourish your hair.
Post-Toning Care
After toning, it’s important to maintain the health and vibrancy of your hair. Use color-safe shampoos and conditioners, avoid excessive heat styling, and protect your hair from sun exposure. Consider using a deep conditioning treatment once a week to keep your hair hydrated and healthy.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Toning your hair at home can be a rewarding experience, but it’s important to be aware of common mistakes that can lead to undesirable results.
Using the Wrong Developer Volume
This is perhaps the most common mistake. Using a developer volume that is too high can damage your hair and lead to uneven or unpredictable color. Always choose the lowest volume that will achieve your desired results.
Over-Processing the Toner
Leaving the toner on for too long can result in overly cool or ashy tones. Monitor your hair closely during processing and rinse the toner out as soon as you achieve the desired color.
Applying Toner to Dirty Hair
Toner should be applied to clean, dry hair. Dirty hair can prevent the toner from penetrating properly and lead to uneven results.
Skipping the Strand Test
A strand test is essential for predicting how your hair will react to the toner and developer mixture. Skipping this step can lead to unwanted surprises and potentially damaging results.
Neglecting Post-Toning Care
Proper post-toning care is crucial for maintaining the health and vibrancy of your hair. Use color-safe products and avoid excessive heat styling to keep your hair looking its best.
When to Seek Professional Help
While toning your hair at home can be a convenient option, there are certain situations where it’s best to seek professional help.
If You’re Unsure About Developer Volume
If you’re unsure about which developer volume to use or how to apply the toner properly, it’s best to consult with a professional stylist. They can assess your hair’s condition and recommend the best approach for achieving your desired results.
If You Have Damaged or Chemically Treated Hair
Damaged or chemically treated hair requires extra care and attention. A professional stylist can assess the condition of your hair and take the necessary precautions to minimize further damage.
If You’re Aiming for a Drastic Color Change
Toner is primarily designed to adjust tone, not to drastically change your hair color. If you’re aiming for a significant color transformation, it’s best to consult with a professional stylist who can safely and effectively achieve your desired results.
If You’ve Experienced Negative Reactions in the Past
If you’ve had negative reactions to hair coloring products in the past, it’s important to proceed with caution. A professional stylist can perform a patch test and take the necessary precautions to minimize the risk of allergic reactions.
In conclusion, selecting the correct developer volume for your toner is a critical step in achieving beautiful, healthy, and vibrant hair color. By understanding the different volumes, considering your hair’s condition, and following the guidelines outlined in this comprehensive guide, you can confidently tone your hair at home and achieve salon-worthy results. When in doubt, always prioritize the health of your hair and consult with a professional stylist. Remember, 10 volume is generally the safest and most effective choice for most toning situations, offering the perfect balance between color deposition and hair health.
What is the purpose of using a developer with toner?
Using a developer with toner is essential for properly depositing the toner pigments onto your hair shaft and ensuring they adhere effectively. Toners themselves primarily work by neutralizing unwanted undertones, such as brassiness or yellow tones in blonde hair. The developer, typically hydrogen peroxide, acts as a catalyst, opening the hair cuticle to allow the toner pigments to penetrate and bind to the hair’s structure. Without a developer, the toner may only sit on the surface, leading to uneven color, poor longevity, and potentially a patchy or unnoticeable result.
The developer also plays a role in lifting the hair’s natural color or any existing artificial color, albeit minimally, to create a suitable canvas for the toner to work on. This is particularly important if you’re aiming for a significant shift in tone. The volume of developer chosen dictates the level of lift and the intensity of the toner’s effect. Choosing the correct volume ensures the desired color outcome without causing unnecessary damage or over-processing.
What volume of developer is generally recommended for toner?
The most commonly recommended developer volume for toner is 10 volume. 10 volume developer is gentle and provides minimal lift, focusing primarily on depositing the toner pigment. This makes it ideal for neutralizing unwanted tones in pre-lightened or naturally light hair without causing significant damage or altering the base color drastically. It’s a safe bet for maintaining the existing shade while refining the tone.
However, in some situations, a 20 volume developer might be considered, especially if you need to lift a slight amount of warmth or if your hair is particularly resistant to absorbing color. It’s crucial to proceed with caution when using 20 volume, as it can result in unwanted lightening or potential damage if not handled correctly. Always perform a strand test to assess the outcome before applying it to your entire head of hair.
Can I use a higher volume developer like 30 or 40 with toner?
Generally, using a developer higher than 20 volume, such as 30 or 40, with toner is not recommended. High-volume developers are designed for significant lightening, and using them with toner can lead to unpredictable and potentially damaging results. They lift the hair cuticle aggressively, which is unnecessary when the goal is simply to neutralize undertones and deposit color.
Employing a 30 or 40 volume developer can cause excessive damage, dryness, and breakage, and may lift your base color to a shade lighter than intended, resulting in a completely different color outcome than desired. Furthermore, it could make the toner appear too vibrant or even muddy, defeating its purpose of achieving a subtle and refined result. Stick to lower volumes like 10 or 20 for optimal toner performance.
What happens if I use toner without a developer?
If you attempt to use toner without a developer, the toner pigments will likely not penetrate the hair shaft properly. Toners need the developer to open the hair cuticle, allowing the color molecules to deposit effectively. Without this action, the toner will largely sit on the surface of the hair, resulting in a minimal or nonexistent color change.
The effects of applying toner without developer will be incredibly subtle, if visible at all, and the color will likely wash out very quickly. It will be a waste of product and effort, as the toner simply won’t be able to do its job of neutralizing unwanted tones or depositing the desired shade. For effective toning, always mix your toner with the appropriate volume developer as indicated in the product instructions.
How do I choose the right developer volume based on my hair color and condition?
Choosing the right developer volume for toner heavily depends on your current hair color, its condition, and the desired outcome. If your hair is already pre-lightened to a pale blonde and in good condition, a 10 volume developer is typically the safest and most effective choice for maintaining the tone and neutralizing any brassiness. This volume ensures minimal damage and focuses primarily on depositing the toner pigment.
If your hair is slightly darker or more resistant to toner, or if you need to lift a very small amount of underlying warmth, a 20 volume developer might be considered. However, proceed with extreme caution and perform a strand test first to assess the level of lift and prevent over-processing. If your hair is damaged or fragile, always opt for the lower 10 volume developer to minimize further damage.
Can I use a cream developer or liquid developer with toner? Does it matter?
Yes, both cream and liquid developers can be used with toner, but cream developers are generally preferred due to their consistency and ease of application. Cream developers are thicker, which allows for better control during the application process, preventing drips and ensuring even distribution of the toner mixture throughout the hair. They also tend to be gentler on the hair due to their moisturizing properties.
Liquid developers, on the other hand, are thinner and can be more difficult to control, potentially leading to uneven application and faster drying times. While they can be used, they may not provide the same level of precision and conditioning as cream developers. Therefore, for best results and ease of use, a cream developer is often the recommended choice when working with toner.
How do I perform a strand test before applying toner and developer to my entire head?
Performing a strand test is crucial to determine how your hair will react to the toner and developer mixture. Start by selecting a small, inconspicuous section of your hair, ideally at the nape of your neck or behind your ear. Mix a small amount of the toner and developer according to the manufacturer’s instructions, using the same ratio you would for the full application.
Apply the mixture to the chosen strand of hair, saturating it completely. Leave it on for the recommended processing time, then rinse thoroughly with water and dry the strand. Examine the color and condition of the hair to assess whether the toner achieved the desired result and if there are any signs of damage or unwanted lightening. Based on the strand test, you can adjust the processing time, developer volume, or toner shade before applying it to your entire head.